Search Results for: feather edge

Feather Edge Boards – 100mm Wide (4 inch)

feather edge

Softwood treated feather edge boards for closeboard fencing. 100mm wide is by far the most common size used in the Oxfordshire/Buckinghamshire area. Each board has been cut from quality softwood timber and pressure treated to protect the fence against rotting in the elements.

How many feather edge boards do I need?

Typically, for each 3m ‘bay’ of closeboard (the most common arris rail is 3m long) you would assume 40 feather edge boards. Or another way to look at it is having 4 boards for every foot of fence. This is assuming a 1-inch overlap, which is what we, and most of the fencing contactors who buy their materials from us, recommend.

How do I overlap and fix the feather edge boards?

To ensure the fence looks even when installing, it is worth having a ‘spacer’ at hand to make sure each board has the same overlap. This doesn’t have to be a fancy gadget or even something you need to buy. Simply nail or screw any 2 thin pieces of wood together in a t-shape or similar which can be used as a guide. Each time a board is nailed, slot the homemade guide against the edge of the last board, and have another piece of wood which has a 1-inch distance from the edge and butt the next board against it, before nailing in place.

What length feather edge do I need to buy?

The board will simply be the height of the fence, minus whatever the height of the gravel board is. For example, the most common size fence is approx’ 6ft (1.8m). In most cases a 6 inch (150mm) gravel board is used along the ground, so therefore 5ft 6 inch (1650mm) boards should be used.

  • 3ft fence = 2ft 6 inch (750mm) feather edge
  • 3ft 6 inch fence = 3ft (900mm) feather edge
  • 4ft fence = 3ft 6 inch (1050mm) feather edge
  • 4ft 6 inch fence = 4ft (1200mm) feather edge
  • 5ft fence = 4ft 6 inch (1350mm) feather edge
  • 5ft 6 inch fence = 5ft (1500mm) feather edge
  • 6ft fence = 5ft 6 inch (1650mm) feather edge
  • 6ft 6 inch fence = 6ft (1800mm) feather edge
  • 7ft fence = 6ft 6 inch (1950mm) feather edge
  • 7ft 6 inch fence = 7ft (2100mm) feather edge
  • 8ft fence = 7ft 6 inch (2250) feather edge

*assuming a standard 6 inch (150mm) gravel board is being used.

Do I need to use gravel boards?

YES! A gravel Board is crucial when installing a closeboard fence. Because the bottom of the fence will generally be sat on the ground the timber can, over time begin to rot if it’s sat on wet soil or grass etc even though it’s pressure treated. A gravel board is a sacrificial element of the fence in this circumstance. It is far easier, not to mention cheaper to replace the gavel board along the bottom of the fence if it starts to rot, rather than all the feather edge boards.

Feather Edge Boards – 125mm Wide (5 inch)

Feather Edge Boards

Softwood treated feather edge boards. This product is the 125mm (5 inch) variation. Each board has been pressure treated to protect the timber against rotting in the elements and are cut from quality softwood.

How many feather edge boards do I need?

Typically, for each 3m ‘bay’ of closeboard (the most common arris rail is 3m long) you would assume 30 of the 125mm feather edge boards. Or another way to look at it is having 3 boards for every foot of fence. This is assuming a 1-inch overlap, which is what we, and most of the fencing contactors who buy their materials from us, recommend.

How do I overlap and fix the feather edge boards?

To ensure the fence looks even when installing, it is worth having a ‘spacer’ at hand to make sure each board has the same overlap. This doesn’t have to be a fancy gadget or even something you need to buy. Simply nail or screw any 2 thin pieces of wood together in a t-shape or similar which can be used as a guide. Each time a board is nailed, slot the homemade guide against the edge of the last board, and have another piece of wood which has a 1-inch distance from the edge and butt the next board against it, before nailing in place.

What length feather edge do I need to buy?

The board will simply be the height of the fence, minus whatever the height of the gravel board is. For example, the most common size fence is approx’ 6ft (1.8m). In most cases a 6 inch (150mm) gravel board is used along the ground, so therefore 5ft 6 inch (1650mm) boards should be used.

*assuming a standard 6 inch (150mm) gravel board is being used.

Do I need to use gravel boards?

YES! A gravel Board is crucial when installing a closeboard fence. Because the bottom of the fence will generally be sat on the ground the timber can, over time begin to rot if it’s sat on wet soil or grass etc even though it’s pressure treated. A gravel board is a sacrificial element of the fence in this circumstance. It is far easier, not to mention cheaper to replace the gavel board along the bottom of the fence if it starts to rot, rather than all the feather edge boards.

Feather Edge Boards – 150mm Wide (6 inch)

feather edge board

Softwood treated feather edge boards. This product is the 150mm (6 inch) variation, less commonly used for closeboard fencing but an option for a chunkier look or as a cladding board for garden structures. Each board has been pressure treated to protect against rotting in the elements, cut from quality softwood.

To achieve a long service life all the fencing boards, posts and rails are tanalised using a high pressure process to protect against rot and decay.

Feather Edge Country Gate – Closeboard

Our feather edge gates are solid, robust and designed to perfectly match closeboard fencing. Each gate is pressure treated, mortice and tenon jointed for maximum strength and finished with a piece of capping along the top edge of the gate. The frame of the gate is around 44mm thick.

The hand of the gate is specified as the side you need the hinges to be when looking at the front of the gate.

Hanging Your New Feather Edge Gate

When hanging your new gate it is important to first ensure that you have the posts/wall plates set in place ready to hang the gate from. When setting the posts, ensure that the gap is the width of the gate plus an extra 20mm. This extra 20mm will allow for the timber expanding in wet weather. During seasonal changes in temperature and moisture levels. During wet weather the wood can swell up considerably as it sucks up moisture.

Feather Edge Cladding

Feather Edge Cladding

Feather edge cladding is available in either 225mm or 150mm widths. Each board is fully pressure treated and supplied in 3.6m lengths. This is ideal for cladding the side of your barn, garage, shed or other garden building.

We can also supply shiplap or tongue and groove boards for cladding, as well as nails, screws and other hardware.

Babington Closeboard Gate Universal Hanging

closeboard gate

This gate is a great value framed, ledged and multi braced stop morticed closeboard gate which has been manufactured using pressure treated softwood boards. The gate has a height of 1.76m with width of 0.9m. The universal framing allows the gate to be hung on either side.

The frame on this gate is made from chunky 4×2 timbers meaning it is much sturdier than other closeboard gates. The feather edge boards used are 100mm (4”) .

How to Hang a Garden Gate

To hang a garden gate correctly you will require:

1 x pair of galvanised T-hinges (18” for most gates, 24” hinges for a 1.2m wide gate)*
2 x  Brenton bolts*
1 x Ring latch*
1 x shutting strip/gate stop*

Preparing to Hang your Gate

It is very important to make sure you have solid and level posts and/or wall plates in position before attempting to hang the gate. Ensure the spacing it correct between the posts/wall plates. The gap should be the width of the gate PLUS around 20mm. This extra 20mm will allow for the timber to expand or contract depending on the temperature and weather conditions. In the hot summer weather (fingers crossed!) the moisture will evaporate from the wood and the gate can shrink considerably. Conversely, in the winter when it’s colder and consistently wet the wood will swell up with the extra moisture, so when planning your gate installation this must be accounted for.

How to Attach  Hinges and Hang your Gate

The hinges should be screwed to the gate top and bottom (although there’s a middle support on the gate, there’s no requirement for 3 hinges to be fitted). Make sure the hinges are perfectly square, and leave a tiny gap between the edge of the gate and the butt of the hinge to ensure it doesn’t ‘rub’ when opening and closing, and likewise make sure when attaching the hinges to the post or wall plate make sure the gate swings ‘freely’ and doesn’t pinch or rub.

There should be a small gap at ground level (around 10-15mm is usually ok in most cases). Never allow the gate to drag along the floor.

hanging gate

How to Attach Closing Latch and Bolts

Once the gate is successfully hung and you’re happy that it swings freely, it’s time to attach the latch and bolts to close the gate. With our kit, we supply a ring latch and 1 Brenton Bolt, an additional Brenton Bolt is required. The ring latch is attached to the middle support of the gate and allows the gate to shut (not lock) without swinging open. There is a ring on both sides of the gate to allow opening from both directions. The 2 Brenton bolts should be fixed top and bottom of the gate and should be used whenever the gate is not in use. The Brenton bolts will prevent the gate from twisting. Wood being a natural product, will sometimes move, and we have seen cases where a gate starts out perfectly level with the posts etc, but after a heat wave etc can twist slightly because of the wood moving as it dries out. Adding a bolt top and bottom will help prevent this from happening.

Lastly, make sure the shutting strip is screwed to the fence post to ensure the gate can’t bend back on itself as shown below:

shutting strip diagram - hang gate

UC4 Treated Fence Posts – 125 x 100mm

WOODEN FENCE POST

Our Redwood UC4 fence posts are kiln dried to below 28% moisture content before treating, allowing the treatment to penetrate deep up to the heartwood. 15 year expected service life.

UC4 5 x 4 posts are well suited to support closeboard fencing, as well as other applications. These are blank posts (not notched) but if you require V-notched 5 x 4 posts for feather edge fencing we can supply those, and we’ll even notch blank posts to your specifications if required.

Common imperial reference  – 5 × 4 inches.

Lap Fence Panels – Treated Brown

brown lap panel 6x6

Our lap panels are often referred to as a ‘standard’ lap panel, and have been a staple of our fencing range for decades. They continue to be our best selling panel, and with good reason. We absolutely believe that our fence panels are the best in the local area for build quality and value for money. As with most things, there may be cheaper alternatives available but are they built to last? Our fence panels certainly are. They are available to purchase in several sizes (see the dropdown box for all available sizes). These economical, yet durable lap panels make a great garden fence.

** PLEASE NOTE – The main photo shows the rear of the panel to illustrate the build type. The front of the panel does not have the 3 vertical slats.

How do we make a Lap Panel?

Our panels are manufactured on site here in our Longwick workshop by our own panel makers. The slats run horizontally and are nailed in place with fencing batten front and rear, then sandwiched along the top and sides. The panel is then finished on top with a capping rail allowing water run off.  So that it withstands the elements, the fence panel is then dipped in a treatment tank. The Slat along the bottom horizontal edge of the panel is a piece of feather edge (22mm on the thickest edge) , which is much thicker than a panel slat. This adds much more strength to the bottom edge of the panel.

The back of our panels are braced with vertical battens nailed firmly into position.

Lap Panel Manufacture

If you are left with an odd size gap at the end of the run of fencing then our workshop has the ability to make a bespoke size lap panel to your size requirements (maximum 1.83m x 1.83m).

Which fence posts should I use for lap fence panels?

Our lap fence panels are suitable for use with timber and slotted concrete fence posts. 75mm x 75mm fence posts are adequate for fences in sheltered locations. In areas susceptible to wind, heavy traffic we recommend posts with a minimum width of 100mm x 100mm (4″ x 4″).

Can I order bespoke size fence panels?

Yes. Because we make our panels on site, we are able to make bespoke panels to your specifications. They can’t be ordered directly through the website, but feel free to either call or email us using the ‘contact us’ link at the top of the site, and we will be able to give you a no obligation quote.

Lap Panel being made.

Closeboard Fence Panels – Full Frame

closeboard panel

These fence panels have been manufactured using 100mm wide feather edge and feature a full frame on the rear to allow the panel to be easily screwed into position if using wooden posts. These panels are extremely robust and solid in construction, and have been fully pressure treated to help protect against rot.

*If using wooden fence posts, 100mm is the size we recommend as most suitable for this fence panel.

V-Notched UC4 Fence Posts – 125 x 100mm

Fence posts for closeboard fencing are (as standard) a 125 x 100mm (5 x 4 inch approximately) post which have been v-notched to take arris rails. Our posts are pressure treated to UC4 specification giving them a far longer life span than ordinary softwood treated fence posts. Each post size is notched to space the arris rails according to the size of feather edge being installed.

What length post do I need for my fence?

In most cases a post which is 2ft longer than the finished height of the fence is ideal. It is sometimes necessary to have 3ft of post in the ground, if it’s prone to being water logged and soft, or in windy exposed areas (such as a hillside property).

The dropdown menu for selecting the size of post will show which size is needed, based on the length of the feather edge board being used. (PLEASE NOTE: This is the size of feather edge and NOT the finished height of the fence, as the finished height will include a gravel board).

If you’re unsure please email us or call us and we will be happy to advise you.

What if I need 3ft in the ground?

If you do live on an exposed hillside or have soft ground, you will need to have 3ft in the ground to help the stability of the fence. We have 2 notched posts available for this. For 5ft 6 inch feather edge, select the 2.7m post from the dropdown menu. If you are using 6ft feather edge, please select 2.99m post. The posts are the same length, but they are notched in different places to suit the 2 lengths of feather edge board. If you are using any other size of feather edge and need 3ft depth under the fence, we can v notch a blank 5 x 4 post to your specifications (details below).

Can we v-notch feather edge fence posts to your requirements?

Yes, we can notch any length of post to suit your needs but this must be ordered with one of our counter staff or please email your request. Our blank (un-notched) 5 x 4 fence posts go right up to 3.6m (12ft approximately).

If you are matching an existing fence which doesn’t quite line up with the notches on our fence posts, or if you are putting a low fence on top of a wall and need longer posts which are notched please contact us via email, phone or come in to store, and we will be happy to help.

Arris Rails

arris rail

Our wooden arris rails have been pressure treated to protect against rot and are typically used to create bays of closeboard fencing using v-notched fence posts and feather edge.

They are to be  used in conjunction with either wooden V-notch or concrete MRT morticed fence posts and act as a rail to fix feather edge boards onto. We also supply a 3m arris rail with shaped ends for slotting into morticed posts.

Pressure Treated Counter Rails – 50 x 22mm

counter rail

These counter rails can be used for many different applications and are recommended for use when installing a closeboard fence. Positioned at the top of the fence post (a notch must be cut into the post) and behind the feather edge boards, they prevent the tops of the feather edge from twisting and a supporting rail for the capping to sit on.

Common imperial reference  – 2 x 1 inches.

 

V-Notched Wallplates

v-notch wall plate

Pressure treated V-notched wall plates are typically used when installing closeboard fencing starting from a wall. They are to be bolted securely to the wall to start the run of fencing. Please note that the size of the FEATHER EDGE each wall plate to notched for is listed on each variant from the dropdown menu. Please bear this in mind when ordering.

Centre Stumps – 1-Way Weathered

centre stump

Our softwood treated centre stumps are manufactured to work in conjunction with bays of closeboard fencing. They are 1-way weathered to enable them to sit underneath the bottom arris rail of the fence, halfway along a bay to reduce any distortion of the bottom edge and stopping the feather edge coming away from the line of the gravel board.

A simple and cheap addition which can maintain the structural integrity of the fence.

SILKY Katanaboy Folding Saw – 500mm

The Silky Katanaboy is a beefy two-handed folding saw. It’s considered Silky’s answer to the ‘man-powered chain saw.’ Currently the biggest in its class, this heavy-duty folding saw with a resharpenable blade of superior quality steel, which easily competes with a chainsaw. Expect to make mincemeat out of any firewood-sized limbs with a KATANABOY that packs a taper-ground blade with a non-slip rubberized grip. The KATANABOY comes with a sturdy, nylon shoulder bag with Velcro fastening and pocket for replacement blades. Translated into English, Katana means, ‘curved single-edged sword,’ considered the weapon of choice for Samurai warriors. Today, the KATANABOY is the folding saw of choice for trail building, ATVing as well as all of your outdoor needs.

The long, well-balanced, taper-ground blade with an impulse-hardened, non-set tooth design provides extended working reach, faster cutting and handles large tree limbs and trunks with little effort. The non-slip, two-handed, rubberised, cushioned handle provides a sure and comfortable grip even in the most difficult operating conditions. The saws come with a sturdy nylon shoulder bag with Velcro fastening and a pocket for replacement blades.

It is possible to re-sharpen the blade using a feather edge file. In addition, the blades and all other parts are also replaceable. (We don’t hold Katanaboy blades, but they can be ordered) There is just one screw to unwind in order to change the blade.

How to use the Silky Katanaboy correctly

Silky Saws are traditional Japanese pruning saws and as such are designed to cut on the pull stroke. The blade will be under tension on the cutting stroke and will not be able to bow.

Let the saw do the work. Never force the blade on the push stroke as you will be pushing against the direction of the teeth. Carefully take the pressure off the blade in order to release the saw.

Generally you should experience fewer vibrations and use less effort enabling longer work and improved productivity.

The saw should be stored in the closed position and cleaned of any debris/dirt to ensure a smooth opening operation. Ideally the blade should be cleaned with a solvent, being careful to keep it away from the handle – this will help prolong its useful life. Store away from moisture.

WARNING. NEVER CUT DIRECTLY ABOVE YOUR HEAD. Always consider where the falling branches will land on the ground. We strongly recommend the use of protective hard hats and glasses.

WARNING. The Silky Katanaboy is extremely sharp so please be careful when using and keep away from children.

MANUFACTURER WARNING. Incorrect use of a Silky Saw may cause injury. Silky, its affiliates, subsidiaries, importers, distributors and dealers are not responsible for and shall not be liable for any fatality, injury, loss, or damage resulting from the use of its products.

NON-SET TEETH – Blades are made from SK-4 high carbon steel and taper ground i.e. thicker at the tooth edge, thinner at the back of the blade. This taper reduces resistance giving smoother, easier, faster cutting performance.

SHARPENABLE – Because impulse-hardening is not applied, the blades marked with this symbol can be sharpened with a file.

MIRAI-ME SMOOTH COATING – The teeth of the future! Blades have precision ground, razor sharp teeth with 4 cutting angles along their length. They leave an especially smooth surface after cutting and are ideal for pruning, greatly reducing the risk of infection. They can rip-cut, cross-cut and slant-cut.

HARD CHROME PLATING – Hard chrome plating produces an exceedingly hard, durable surface. The blades are resistant to rust and the effects of resin. They are finely or mirror polished and wipe clean easily.

RUBBER HANDLE – Almost all Silky saws have rubber compound elastomer handles, either inserted or vulcanised to ABS plastic or steel. Rubber handles are more comfortable to hold, reduce vibration and offer superior grip in the cold and wet.

IMPORTANT* – Guide for the correct use of Silky saws

SILKY Katanaboy Folding Saw – 650mm

Silky Katanaboy 650

The Katanaboy is the largest two-handed professional folding saw on the market today. When the word is translated into English, ‘Katana’ means the curved, single-edge sword used by Samurai. This mega, two-handed folding saw from Silky is currently the biggest in its class and is often known as the ‘man-powered chainsaw.’

This heavy-duty folding saw comes in a choice of 2 blade lengths, 500mm and 650mm. The tooth configuration is very aggressive with 5 teeth per 30mm on the 500mm version and only 4 teeth per 30mm on the 650mm version – the most aggressive available from Silky of any saw.

The long, well-balanced, taper-ground blade with an impulse-hardened, non-set tooth design provides extended working reach, faster cutting and handles large tree limbs and trunks with little effort.

The non-slip, two-handed, rubberised, cushioned handle provides a sure and comfortable grip even in the most difficult operating conditions. The saws come with a sturdy nylon shoulder bag with Velcro fastening and a pocket for replacement blades.

It is possible to re-sharpen the blade using a feather edge file. In addition, the blades and all other parts are also replaceable. There is just one screw to unwind in order to change the blade.

IMPORTANT* – Guide for the correct use of Silky saws

SILKY Hayate 6.1m Pole Saw

SILKY HAYATE

The Hayate Pole Saw is the professional’s pole saw with thick, state-of-the-art, oval-shaped aluminium alloy poles. This shape provides precise control over the direction of the blade (especially important in poles of this length) and reduces the chance of bending to a minimum.

The telescopic design has two locking systems – a spring loaded locking button and friction clamps which work in tandem to ensure a strong and stable pole extension.

The aggressive Hayate 420mm curved blade uses Silky’s proprietary Mirai-Me teeth configuration and offers an aggressive teeth ratio of 6.5 teeth per 30mm. The blade is designed to cut efficiently, is harder than conventional blades, and maintains a superior wear resistant cutting edge.

The blades have a lower sickle for undercutting bark and removing epicormics with a clean cut to avoid damaging the tree and an upper sickle for cutting vines – these sickles also help prevent the blade slipping off the branch. The lower sickle can be removed if necessary. The Hayate Pole Saw comes equipped with a rigid-plastic blade guard with a built-in carrying handle. In addition, the base pole includes a pole end shock absorber to help protect the pole when resting on the ground.

It is ideal for pruning large branches at higher positions without ever climbing a ladder. This is the strongest and fastest, telescopic pole saw available on the market today.

All Hayate Pole Saw blades can be re-sharpened with a feather edged file and all parts are replaceable.

IMPORTANT* – Guide for the correct use of Silky saws

 

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